Alexander mcqueen brand analysis
Alexander McQueen (fashion house)
British luxury fashion house
Alexander McQueen is a British luxury fashion house founded by the designer Alexander McQueen in After his death, Sarah Burton[2] was its creative director, from to Gianfilippo Testa has been CEO since March [1] and Seán McGirr creative director since October [3] The house specializes in haute couture, ready-to-wear, premium leather accessories, as well as footwear.
History
The Alexander McQueen brand was founded by the designer Alexander McQueen in [4] The house's early collections developed its reputation for controversy and shock tactics (earning the title "l'enfant terrible" and "the hooligan of English fashion"), with trousers aptly named "bumsters" and a collection entitled Highland Rape.[5][6] McQueen staged lavish and unconventional runway shows, such as a recreation of a shipwreck for his Spring collection, Spring 's human chess game, and the Fall show, Widows of Culloden, which featured a life-sized hologram of supermodel Kate Moss dressed in yards of rippling fabric.[7] In total, McQueen designed 36 collections for his London label, including his MA graduate collection.[8]
During his time as head designer, McQueen was awarded the title "British Designer of the Year" four times between and ;[9] he was also appointed a CBE and named International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers in [10]
In December , the Gucci Group acquired 51% of his company and appointed him as Creative Director[11] before launching stores in London,[12] Milan,[13] New York,[14] Los Angeles[15] and Las Vegas.
Following the takeover, the brand's catwalk presentations were relocated from London to Paris, beginning with the Spring/Summer collection with The Dance of The Twisted Bull on 6 October [16]
Alexander McQueen launched its first menswear collection in Spring/Summer [17] and continues to show its collections during Milan Fashion Week.
The company launched its first women's pre-Spring collection on the runway with its men's collection on 22 June [18] and has released cruise collections since Spring [19]
Alexander McQueen launched an online store in the US in [20] This was later expanded with an online store for the UK market in [21] On 31 October , Alexander McQueen opened its first store in Beijing with a runway show.[22]
McQueen's suicide was announced on the afternoon of 11 February At the time of his death, the company had debts of £32 million[23][24] despite posting profits from handbag sales in [25]
Sarah Burton, who was McQueen's deputy for 14 years, became the creative director for the Alexander McQueen label after his death.
The company continued to expand globally in the following years, and its product range also expanded. The number of McQueen stores worldwide had increased to by the end of , with revenues estimated to be €m in [26]
McQ
On 27 July , the company launched a lower-priced diffusion line McQ.[27] The line, separate from the main house, carried upscale men's and women's ready-to-wear and accessories, was exclusively designed by Lee Alexander McQueen, manufactured and distributed worldwide by SINV SpA under the terms of a five-year license agreement with Alexander McQueen.[28] Promoted as a denim line, the focus of McQ was a more youthful market.[29] The Spring/Summer was the final collection in collaboration with SINV SpA.
Pina Ferlisi was appointed as the creative director for the line in June [30]
Following the expiration of the contract with SINV SpA with the Spring/Summer collection, the brand announced on 11 October that it would take control of the McQ diffusion line by creating a new internal team with the creative direction of Pina Ferlisi, under the leadership of Alexander McQueen's creative director Sarah Burton.[31][32] For the first campaign for the re-acquired line, photographer Niall O'Brien collaborated with McQ by driving across the American Northwest capturing images which evoked the McQ attitude.[33]
In August , the company announced it would launch its first McQ standalone boutique in London in [34] In November , it announced that McQ would be presented at London Fashion Week for the first time in February , and that its four-storey Georgian townhouse boutique would stock womenswear, menswear, and accessories.[35]
As of June , the McQ diffusion line was “suspended" after the appointment of a new CEO, Gianfilippo Testa, in May [36]
Collaborations
Between and , Alexander McQueen collaborated with the jeweller Shaun Leane on bespoke jewellery pieces for the catwalk presentations.[37][38]
In January , Alexander McQueen collaborated with the perfumer Jacques Cavallier[39] to launch his first fragrance Kingdom, which was launched on the designer's birthday 17 March.[40] A limited edition version of the fragrance was launched in [41] The company launched its second fragrance, My Queen, three years later in [42] On 10 October , Alexander McQueen collaborated with Michael Clark to stage the Spring collection.[43] On 15 October , Alexander McQueen collaborated with Björk at Fashion Rocks where the Fall collection was presented at the Royal Albert Hall.[44][45]
In , Alexander McQueen collaborated with Safilo via a licensing deal to launch an eyewear range.[46][47] The collection featured the house's trademark skull detail.[48] The same year, the company collaborated with American Express to launch a limited-edition version of its ultra-exclusive Centurion Card.[49] The card is available by invitation only to AMEX Platinum card members.[50] To launch the card, McQueen hosted a retrospective of his collections from till Fall [51]
In , Alexander McQueen collaborated with Puma AG to produce a line of men's and women's footwear launched in Spring [52] The Alexander McQueen x PUMA collaboration was founded on the union of tradition and technology, with juxtaposing influences.[53] In , the line's Fall collection was fully expanded to include men's and women's apparel,[54] with a collaboration with the film director Saam Farahmand to produce a 4-minute short film Ghost as an ad campaign for the collection.[55][56]
In , Alexander McQueen became the first brand to participate in MAC's promotion of cosmetic releases created by fashion designers.[57] The collection was released on 11 October and reflected the looks used on the Autumn/Winter McQueen catwalk.
The inspiration for the collection was the film Cleopatra starring Elizabeth Taylor, and thus the models sported intense blue, green, and teal eyes with strong black liner extended Egyptian-style.[58]
In , Alexander McQueen collaborated with Samsonite to produce the Black Label luggage collection using a mould of a human ribcage and sternum on the front and spine on the back.[59] Other pieces in the collection apply animal patterns like crocodile to the bags' skin using laser cutting technology.[60] With the catwalk presentations, Alexander McQueen collaborated with Philip Treacy to produce hats for the Spring collection,[61] and again with the Fall collection.[62] The same year, the McQ diffusion line collaborated with the retailer Target as McQ for Target.[63] It was the first collaboration between Target and an international designer.[64] McQueen cited Leila Moss of The Duke Spirit as his muse for the collection.[65] The collection was launched on 4 March ,[66] with the band playing at the launch party.[67]
During first semester of , McQueen also collaborated with the dancer Sylvie Guillem, the director Robert Lepage and the choreographer Russell Maliphant to design the wardrobe for the theater show "Eonnagata", directed by Lepage.
The film "Sylvie Guillem, On The Edge" produced by the French production company A DROITE DE LA LUNE, traces the whole history of the creation of the show, from its first rehearsals in Quebec to its world premiere in at Sadler's Wells theater in London.[68]
On 6 October , the company collaborated with SHOWstudio to stream its Spring/Summer collection Plato's Atlantis live on the company's website.[69][70] The shoes from that collection were later featured on the SHOWstudio website.[71] The same year, the company collaborated with Unkle who produced music for the McQ Autumn/Winter collection[72] titled McQ.
The collaboration was a success, and was extended a second season for the McQ Spring/Summer collection where the promotional CD was given out in a McQ press goodie bag.[73]
In June , Visionaire magazine's 58th issue, titled Spirit: A Tribute To Lee Alexander McQueen, was released as a tribute to the late founder.[74] The issue featured images and discussions with editors who had met McQueen in to discuss the collaboration which never materialised.[75] The issue also features contributions from Lady Gaga, Steven Klein, Nick Knight and Mario Testino[76] Only 1, numbered copies were made, with pages made from seeded paper, which will sprout wildflowers once planted, signifying the ongoing legacy of McQueen.[77]
Controversies
Alexander McQueen first caused controversy with his Spring/Summer collection which featured his signature "bumster trousers".
At the time, the trousers were described as indecent as they barely covered the natural downward curve of the buttocks.[78] He followed this by entitling his Autumn/Winter collection Highland Rape which he explained was about the "rape" of Scotland by the English, a subject that had a personal resonance as his family is of Scottish descent.[79] The collection featured tattered dresses made of scraps of tartan and chiffon and a tampon-strewn skirt.[80]
In , Alexander McQueen photographed Aimee Mullins and sent her down the catwalk with intricately carved wooden legs – making her the first amputee to ever be featured on the catwalk.[81] For the untitled Spring/Summer catwalk show, Shalom Harlow's white cotton dress was sprayed by car robots as she was spun around a platform.[82] Animal rights activists and heavy police presence due to a reported bomb scare were present at the Autumn/Winter Eshu catwalk show, due to the extensive use of fur and leather in the collection.[83]
McQueen was accused of misogyny following the Autumn/Winter The Horn of Plenty catwalk show[84] where models with huge, overdrawn red and black lips were compared to a blow-up sex doll and hats made from found objects and rubbish like aluminium cans and duct tape implied models themselves were trash.[85][86] Similarly, the Autumn/Winter An Bailitheor Cnámh menswear catwalk show featured men in masks and netted headgear that alluded to sadomasochism or bondage, and one of the suits was printed with human skulls and bones.[87]
For the Spring/Summer Plato's Atlantis catwalk show, models refused to wear the now iconic 12&#;inch high armadillo shoes due to safety fears.[88] One of the models who refused, had fainted in the Spring/Summer Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection catwalk show after being squeezed into a corset which was too tight.[89]Lady Gaga wore a pair in her music video for "Bad Romance"[90][91] and created a version in chocolate encrusted with sparkly sprinkles for her Christmas shop in [92]
Selfridges store in London caused controversy when they unveiled a window display showing one of McQueen’s designs being hanged from the gallows.[93] The store later apologised, saying that "presenting a fashion item from the new Alexander McQueen collection hanging was never intended to be linked to the designer's untimely death or how he died."[94]
In October , The Hell's Angels filed a lawsuit against the company for "misusing its trademark winged death heads symbol"[95] in several items from its Autumn/Winter collection.
The lawsuit was widely reported across all media,[96][97][98] The US$2, "Hell's Angels Knuckleduster Box clutch" handbag[99] and US$ "Hells Angels Pashmina" scarf[] was also named in lawsuit.[] The lawyer representing Hells Angels claimed "This isn't just about money, it's about membership.
If you've got one of these rings on, a member might get really upset that you're an imposter."[] The company settled the case with the Hell's Angels after agreeing to remove all of the merchandise featuring the logo from sale on their website, stores and concessions and recalling any of the goodies which have already been sold and destroying them.[][][]
Similarly, costume designer Jany Temime was exposed for copying a dress from the Autumn/Winter collection The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, for her work on Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.[] Temime had claimed that she "wanted it to be a witch wedding dress but not a Halloween dress.
The dress is white but it needed to have something fantastic to it. So there is the phoenix [motif], the bird, which is a symbol of love in a way because there is rebirth, love never dies, it is born again." However, the birds on the McQueen original were actually peacocks, and although Temime did manage to change the crest on the bird's heads to make them more 'phoenixy', she neglected to alter any other detail of the birds, including their rather obvious peacock feathers.[] The story was widely reported by the fashion media.[][][][][][][]
Post-Lee Alexander McQueen through today
On 18 February , Robert Polet, the president and chief executive of the Gucci Group, announced that the Alexander McQueen business would carry on without its founder and creative director.[] He also added that a McQueen collection would be presented during Paris Fashion Week.[]
On 27 May , Sarah Burton, McQueen's right hand design aide since , was announced as the new creative director of the Alexander McQueen brand,[] with further plans to launch a men's underwear collection in June [] The underwear line featured iconic prints from the McQueen archive and the logo on the waistband,[] with a percentage of the launch collection of Alexander McQueen underwear to be given to various AIDS charities around the world.[]
Burton launched her first menswear show Pomp and Circumstance under the McQueen brand in June to generally positive reviews, which noted how low-key the event was.[] She launched the brand's womenswear resort collection shortly after,[] which was praised for lightness and having 'a woman's touch'.[] Burton showed her first womenswear show on 5 October in Paris, where she said her vision for the brand would be "lighter".[] The show was praised for being one of the strongest shows at Paris Fashion Week,[] "full of McQueen trademarks and ideas" and a "far more optimistic sensibility".[]Michael Jackson's "I'll Be There" was played at the finale of the show.[]
Creative director Sarah Burton designed the dress worn by Catherine Middleton during her wedding to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge on Friday 29 April []
An analysis of online chatter shows that Alexander McQueen creates the most intense feelings of brand passion amongst wedding dress designers in the NetBase Brand Passion Index.[]
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City hosted a posthumous exhibition of McQueen's work in titled Savage Beauty.
Despite being open for only three months, it was one of the most popular exhibitions in the museum's history.[] The exhibition was so successful that Alexander McQueen fans and industry professionals worldwide began rallying at to "Please Make Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty a Traveling Exhibition" to bring honour to McQueen and see his vision become a reality: to share his work with the entire world.[] This exhibition celebrated McQueen's vision and creativity.
It comprised one hundred of its most famous designs, taken from its archive in London.
The exhibition Savage Beauty was brought to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London from 14 March to 2 August []
On 28 November , Sarah Burton won the Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards.[]
As of January , Harley Hughes is Alexander "McQueen's head of men's wear design" during the Fall fashion show.[2] After the show, both Sarah Burton, the creative director, and Harley Huges, took a bow to the public.[2]
In July , Catherine Middleton (now Catherine, Princess of Wales), wore an all-cream Alexander McQueen outfit for Princess Charlotte's christening.[]
In May , at UNESCO Headquarters, Alexander McQueen brand won Prix Versailles for its rue Saint-Honoré boutique, in Paris.[][]
In September , it was announced that creative director Sarah Burton would be stepping down from the label after a 26 year career with the brand.
In October , her replacement, Seàn McGirr, was announced creative director.[3]
Governance
CEOs
| Director | Tenure |
|---|---|
| Gianfilippo Testa[1] | –present |
Creative directors
Retail Stores
AMQ and McQ operated by Alexander McQueen Ltd.
and Kering S.A., with YOOX S.p.A. as online retailer since []
- Asia: 23 (China, Hong Kong (5), Macau (3), Japan, Korea, Thailand, Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia)
- New Zealand: 1 (Auckland)
- Australia: 1 (Melbourne)
- Europe: 7 (London (2), Milan, Moscow (2), Paris, & Vienna)
- Middle East: 4 (Abu Dhabi & Dubai (2), Qatar)
- United States: 8 (Dallas, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Charlotte, Atlanta & San Francisco)
- Canada: 1 (Toronto)
List of Alexander McQueen collections
Main article: List of Alexander McQueen collections
Alexander McQueen collections each featured a title revolving around the specific theme for each collection and show.
The tradition ended for Autumn/Winter with McQueen's death, and subsequent collections were launched without titles.
Brand identity guidelines But working at Givenchy helped me learn my craft. The company upheld its reputation for producing striking, thought-provoking events that frequently went beyond conventional fashion shows to become authentic works of art. Through its avant-gardiste designs, the brand has managed to stabilize its position in the market. This innovative fusion of technology and fashion was nothing short of mesmerizing, leaving audiences in awe.The traditional briefly returned for the Autumn/Winter collection and continued until Sarah Burton's departure after the Spring/Summer show. The list excludes pre-collections and accessories lines.
| Season | Title | Location | Creative Director |
|---|---|---|---|
| Graduate Collection | Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Taxi Driver | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Nihilism | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Banshee | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | The Birds | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Highland Rape | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | The Hunger | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Danté | London (later restaged in New York) | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Bellmer La Poupée | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | It's A Jungle Out There | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled&#;(originally Golden Shower) | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Joan | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Nº13 | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The Overlook | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Eye | New York | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Eshu | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Voss | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | What A Merry-Go-Round | London | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | The Dance of the Twisted Bull | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Supercalifragilistic-expialidocious | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Irere | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Scanners | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Deliverance | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Pantheon ad Lucem | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | It's Only a Game | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The Man Who Knew Too Much | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Neptune | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The Widows of Culloden | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Sarabande | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | In Memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem, | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | La Dame Bleue | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The Girl Who Lived in the Tree | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The Horn of Plenty | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Plato's Atlantis | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled (unofficially Angels & Demons) | Paris | Lee Alexander McQueen (finished by Sarah Burton) |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | The Spirit of the Rose | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Mycelium | New York | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | First Sight | London | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Anatomy | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Anatomy II | Paris | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Paris | Seán McGirr |
| Season | Title | Location | Creative Director |
|---|---|---|---|
| Autumn/Winter | Textist | Presented Digitally | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Killa | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Harlem | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The Forgotten | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Please, Sur | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | Pilgrim | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | Love You | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | The McQueensbury Rules | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Spring/Summer | An Alexander Film Directed by David Sims | Presented Digitally | Lee Alexander McQueen |
| Autumn/Winter | An Bailitheor Cnámh | Milan | Lee Alexander McQueen (finished by Sarah Burton) |
| Spring/Summer | Pomp and Circumstance | Milan | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Milan | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Milan | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | The Sea | London | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | London | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
| Autumn/Winter | Untitled | Presented Digitally (12 looks from this collection were presented during the following womenswear show in Paris) | Sarah Burton |
| Spring/Summer | Untitled | Presented Digitally | Sarah Burton |
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